Sushi Ryuichi

Aiming for the moment when seafood and rice dissolve together on the tongue, Sushi Ryuichi adjusts the warmth and pressure of the vinegared rice for each variety of fish. The nigiri placed on the counter reflect this meticulous pursuit of harmony. Shallow decorative cuts spaced as narrowly as rice grains are scored into each slice of fish to ease the fibers, allowing the topping to break down naturally in rhythm with the rice.

The progression is memorable, beginning with items like fragrant seared Spanish mackerel, horse mackerel, and sweet cuttlefish before moving through lean tuna, chutoro, and otoro. For rich otoro, slightly warmer rice helps the sweet fat melt cleanly across the palate. Pieces such as sea urchin gunkanmaki comparing different origins and plump conger eel are enriched by the chef's friendly explanations detailing the background and preparation of each piece.

Warm small plates served between rounds of nigiri provide a welcome rhythm to the meal. Freshly fried crab cream croquettes packed with crabmeat, rich chawanmushi custard concealing seasonal ingredients, and negima tuna-and-scallion soup sustain the palate between sushi courses. The sake selection is thoughtfully chosen, and the chef is happy to suggest bottles to sip alongside each stage of the dinner.

The counter seats around 7 to 8 guests, creating a focused, relaxed atmosphere within close view of the chef. Courses proceed comfortably at each diner's pace, usually taking between 2 and 2 and a half hours from start to finish. Because the restaurant operates on a reservation basis for both lunch and dinner, booking ahead with ample time to spare is recommended.